Articles & Reviews

 

Four fish for Four Seasons

Over the years there has been many articles written about so many different techniques and all state that they will improve your fishing in one way or another. So what is different about this article to all those others? Well, what I will attempt to do is give you a variety of techniques that will enable you to not only fish all year round, but also give you the option to fish for four different fish species while doing so.
 
The four fish species will be the yellowtail kingfish in the summer and autumn months, yellowtail bream in the summer, autumn and winter months, dusky flathead will be a year round option and Australian salmon will be from the beginning of winter through to the middle of summer. All of which, will have a couple different techniques for each of the fish species. What you will find is that a particular technique that you may use for flathead in the winter you could also use for bream in the summer months with a slight variation to it.
 
In the main I will cover live bait for yellowtail kingfish in the summer, then bait fishing for yellow fin bream in the autumn, how to use plastics for the dusky flathead during winter and then finally in spring on how to lure cast and troll minnows for Australian salmon.
 
KINGFISH / LIVE BAIT / SUMMER TO AUTUMN.
During the summer months many anglers think that all you need to do when live baiting for yellowtail kingfish is pin a 6/0 hook into a yakka or squid, then drop it over the side to the bottom with a rather large sinker, put the rod into a rod holder and then forget about it. That is until you hear the line scream from the reel as the rod is doubling over from the strain of the kingfish after it swallowed the live bait and is heading for that reef or structure to bust you off.
 
What I have found over the years is that you need to constantly keep one eye on the rod while at the same time keep fishing for other fish species. Now while you are fishing you notice that the rod tip starts to jump around a fair bit, you will most probably find that a kingfish is harassing the live bait that you have just sent down.  I have found that it is definitely better to take the rod out of the rod holder and give it all your attention, and as soon as the kingfish takes off you should strike. The reason that I prefer to do it this way, is that kingfish need to swallow their prey whole and it is at this time when the whole bait and the hook are in its mouth you have a much better chance of getting pinned inside the fishes mouth.
 
There has been many a time when I have gone out to chase kingfish, only to find that there is not squid or yakka to be caught anywhere. If this happens to you, don't despair, try using slimy mackerel, sweep, mados, tailor, pike and nannygai, all of which will come into their own as a live bait. Too many anglers tend to get into a groove or frame of mind, no yakkas or squid, no kingfish. What you need to do is experiment and try a variety of live baits, as long as they are of legal size and you too will be surprised at what a kingfish will take at times.
 
Now yellowtail kingfish just love to hang around structure and it was to no surprise that when I was out on Botany Bay earlier in the year in autumn I came across a school of about nine kingfish to about 80 cm in size swimming around one of the marker poles. After spending twenty minutes or so casting both poppers and plastics to them with no response it was decided to cast a live bait to them. What we did was take off the large sinker off the live bait rig and then I got my mate to drive over to the pole so that I could cast the unweighted live bait at the pole they were around. At the same time I was hanging onto the rod with the reel in strike mode. It only took about one to two seconds for a kingfish to take the bait.
 
The next few seconds are critical to whether you are going to win the fight or not. While you are hanging on for grim death your mate will then need to either steer or reverse your boat away from the pole/structure out into open water. This will usually give you a much better chance of landing the fish.
 
YELLOWFIN BREAM / BAIT / AUTUMN, WINTER & SUMMER.
Even though bream can be caught year round in the Sydney area, the last months of summer and the beginning of autumn seems to be when the bream are around more of the beaches and the bays in Sydney. Maybe this is because more anglers tend fish for them at this time of the year or they have started to move up and down the coast looking for somewhere to either take up residence or to start breeding. Whatever it is, late summer and through to the end of May is a good time to target bream in the estuaries of Sydney. Bream can be caught in so many different places. They love to hang around oyster leases, cockle and weed beds, and structures like bridge pylons and drop offs, rock platforms and beach gutters and mangroves. Now what I would like you to do is think of an area that you fish for bream that at certain times of the month it has very fast running water running past or over it and all you usually catch is small snapper. To get away from these small snapper you will need to change your technique.
 
What you need to do is get yourself a tide chart and look for days when there were very high, high tides and very low, low tides that occurred earlier in 2003. For example the 16th to the 18th of March, 15th to the 17th of April and the 17th to the 19th of May 2003, had tides between that were between 1.9 metres at high tide and a low that got down to about .2 of a metre. Once you have worked out similar tides for yourself in your area, you will then need to anchor in about 1.5 to 4 metres of water and make sure that you berley with a combination of chicken pellets and cubes of either pilchards or tuna. While laying out this berley trail you will need to rig up your line so that you have a leader of somewhere between 1.5 and 2. 0 metres. Once this has been done you will then need to cast out as far as you can from the sides and the back of the boat, then put the rod in the rod holder, set the baitrunner and just sit back and wait for the action to happen.
 
What this allows to do is that the bait will rise off the bottom (getting it away from those small snapper) giving the bream a chance to swoop by and take the bait. If there hasn't been any action for about twenty to thirty minutes you will need to move, re-anchor, set-up and start the waiting game. An area that this technique is very effective is a place called the STICKS in Botany Bay. In the Port Hacking you could try near Deban Spit, the small reef on the northern side of the entrance to Middle Harbour and the entrance to Hen & Chicken Bay in the Parramatta River. I find that during the autumn months the baits that get the best results for me are pink nippers, blood and squirt worms, chicken gut, strips of striped tuna, bonito and mullet, whole Hawkesbury River and peeled blue tailed prawns and also large whitebait. Small live poddy mullet are also worth a try.
 
During the winter months I find that the bream will move much further up the rivers and creeks and that if you fish with unweighted baits like pink nippers, fillets of pilchard, strip tuna, mullet and spider crabs around oyster leases and rock shorelines you will be in with a chance to tackle with one of those blue nosed bream that get around these areas during the winter months.
 
DUSKY FLATHEAD / PLASTICS / MINNOWS / YEAR ROUND.
Over the past couple of years plastics have been all the rage. Nearly every time you pick up a magazine you will come across an article that has a new technique that you can use when fishing for flathead with soft plastics. In this part of the article I will give you a technique that you can use with plastics. Now if you think back to the last few summer seasons that you have had chasing dusky flathead, you may remember that the wind came up to a point where it made it very hard or near impossible to keep that plastic on the bottom while drifting. This is when a sea anchor will come into its own. A sea anchor is like a parachute, which in turn is dragged through the water to slow your drift down. Now if you have always wanted to improve you flathead fishing I would go say that it is a must that every boating angler who drifts while fishing should have one of these in their boats and if you have never used one before you will be totally amazed at how much it does slow down your drift, enabling you to get that plastic or bait down to the bottom where the dusky flathead lay in ambush for that passing prey.
           
Now the trick to using a sea anchor is you will need to cast the plastic with a weighted jig head towards where you are drifting, not from where you have drifted. You then allow it to sink to the bottom and then retrieve it in a jerking motion, allowing it to sit on the bottom before each retrieve. When casting plastics the sea anchor will slow you down enough so that you will have plenty of time to work all around the boat. I have been using a Para Anchor for around five years and I wouldn't be in the boat without it.
 
During the winter months you will find that the dusky flathead move further up stream and seem to go into a semi hibernation state, making it very hard to get amongst a few. What I find works for me is to troll deep diving minnows along the edge of drop-offs during the last hour to an hour and a half. The dusky flathead will lay in wait for the baitfish to come off the sand flats during the last part of the tide.
 
AUSTRALIAN SALMON / MINNOWS / WINTER THROUGH TO SUMMER
In our neck of the woods spring usually heralds the start of those large schools of surface fish like salmon that move up and down the coast. These fish will usually patrol current lines, the edge of rock washes, drop-offs, bomboras, reefs, beaches and bays. A good indication that salmon are about is when you see those small black-headed terns start to hover just above the water waiting for the Australian salmon to push the baits schools to the top. Once the salmon have balled the baitfish up against the surface the feeding frenzy will start. This can also be indicated when sea gulls are doing the same thing.
 
While you are waiting for this surface action to happen, you should keep yourself active by trolling around some of those structures that I mentioned earlier. If I am trolling Manns Stretch 5's or 10's I will not travel any faster than five knots, as the lure tends to pull out of the water. On the other hand when trolling with Rapalla CD 7's, 9's and 11's I can troll at up to seven knots.
 
When trolling I will usually have three rods out the back. The port side lure will be about twenty to twenty five metres back, the starboard side lure will be placed at about thirty-five metres back and the middle one will be positioned where the prop wash starts to break up. For depth I will have one of the deeper divers in the middle and shallower running lures on the outside. I find that as soon as there is a hook up on any one of the lures I will immediately cut the motor and start retrieving the others so that they too have a chance of hooking up. It is not un-common to get a three way hook-up at the same time making landing the fish all that much more exciting.
 
Now that I have given you a couple of basic techniques for catching kingfish, yellowfin bream, dusky flathead and Australian salmon you need to get out there and try them. Once you have mastered each of these different techniques you could try them on the other fish species mentioned in the article. For instance try putting on an either live pink nipper, fillet of mullet or a plastic and cast it unweighted right up against a floating pontoon or a moored boat for bream during the middle of the day in summer. The trick to getting success with this is to pick the pontoons that are in the shade.
 
FAVOURITE PLASTIC AND MINNOWS.
 
Type of minnow or plastic.
Manufacture.
Technique
Fish species
Swim Shad 15cm
Lucky Craft
Trolling
Kingfish, salmon
65 and 100mm Sammies
Lucky Craft
Surface
Kingfish, flathead, bream
5 & 7 inch Jerk Shads
Gulps
Jigging & trolling
Kingfish, flathead, salmon
2 & 3 inch shrimps
Gulps
Jigging & casting
Flathead, bream.
10cm Saltwater Pointer-suspender
Lucky Craft
Trolling & casting
Kingfish
Mann' s Stretch 5+, 10+, 12+ & 20+

Trolling & casting
Kingfish, flathead, salmon & bream
Big Eye Blades
Berkley
Casting & Jigging
Flathead, bream
CD 7's & 9's
Squidgy
Casting & trolling
Kingfish, salmon & flathead
Squidgy fish
Squidgy
Casting, jigging & slow trolling
Kingfish, salmon, flathead & bream
Squidgy shads
Squidgy
Casting, jigging & slow trolling
Kingfish, salmon, flathead & bream
Squidgy wriggler
Squidgy
Casting,  jigging & slow trolling
Kingfish, salmon, flathead & bream
 
 
 
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BERLEY, AN ESSENTIAL TECHNIQUE EVERYONE SHOULD KNOW HOW TO DO WHEN BAIT FISHING.

The trick to successful berleying is to have the correct combination of ingredients, consistency of the flow and timing, and to my way of thinking those anglers who don't use berley are mad, as it would have to be the most effective way of attracting the fish to you. But when using berley, no matter what the combination is, you need to use it as a technique of getting the fish to you. Not as something that feeds the fish or takes them away from you. The main thing that you have got to remember is that the largest object that is floating down that berley trail is your bait with a hook in it.
 
If you have been using berley and have found that it has not been very successful or you may have never ever used berley, you need to ask yourself some of the following questions;
 
Does the berley take the fish away from where you are fishing?
Are you just feeding the fish so much that they will not want to eat what you have on offer?
How often should I berley?
What types of berley should I use for each fish species?
Do I have to berley differently from a boat than to when I am fishing from the shore?
 
These are some of the questions that I get asked time after time, and it comes as a surprise to many anglers when I tell them that I berley about ninety five percent of the time when I am bait fishing, and about ten percent of the time when I am lure fishing and believe me I wouldn't do it any other way. To help you on your way to being more successful when using berley I have broken each of these questions up so that I can explain to you some of techniques that I use.
 
Does the berley take the fish away from where you are fishing?
The only way that the berley will take the fish away from your bait is if the current is racing so fast that as soon as your berley hits the water it is taken away from where you are fishing. To counter react this you will need to either use a berley device that will enable you to lower the berley down to near the bottom, don't soak the bait before it gets into the water or throw it up current. If I am fishing is say five metres of water and the current is racing, I will throw a handful of the larger dog pellets up current. This will allow them time to sink down to the bottom and roll along with the current to where your bait will be positioned.
 
Are you just feeding the fish so much that they will not want to eat what you have on offer?
Sometimes when anglers who are new to using berley will actual throw out so much berley that they will actually feed the fish to a point that the fish will not take the bait that is intended for them. What you need to do is keep the berley pieces to a smaller size than the bait you are using. A couple of years ago I had a chance to go cubing for yellowfin tuna out at Browns Mountain off Sydney. We had taken out six blocks of WA pilchards that were to used for both whole for bait and cut up into 3cm pieces for berley. Once the pilchards had been cut up into 30cm pieces and fed out from the drifting boat, the whole pilchard with a 7/0 Mustad Big hook in it was then fed down the berley trail to the waiting yellowfin. It took me just over an hour to land a 29 kilo yellowfin on ten kilo line, but that's another story.
 
How often should I berley?
If you were using a combination dog or cat pellets, chicken layer pellets and small chopped up pieces of pilchards to attract snapper, bream or mulloway into your berley trail I would prefer to disperse them by throwing out a handful of the larger dog or cat pellets, then a handful of chicken layer pellets, followed by a few pieces of chopped up pilchards. The order of this combination is critical, as the dog or cat pellets will sink the fastest, then the chicken pellets, followed by the pilchards giving you an even spread through the water column and over the seabed. Initially you would repeat this process every two to three minutes. Once the fish are starting to pick up your baits, you would space it about every five to six minutes apart.
 
If you were fishing off the shore, for example a break or retaining wall for mulloway you could try a combination of the larger dog or cat pellets, half pieces of pilchards and pieces of cut up mullet. All of these ingredients would be placed into a twenty-litre bucket and then thrown out into the water at about every ten minutes. The main thing to make sure is that the current does not take the berley away to quickly, so keep the berley rather large in size.
 
What types of berley should I use for each fish species?
Many anglers will go out for a fish and just use anything that they can get their hands on or what they have either left over in the freezer for berley. Now a lot of the times this will work, but there are times when you have to be more precise in what you are going to use for your berley to get the fish you are targeting to swim up your berley trail.
 
I use a variety of different ingredients and combinations in my berley to attract the particular fish species that I am targeting on the day. These ingredients can be any of the following items: bread, bread crumbs, chicken layer pellets, dog or cat food (larger pellets), pilchards, prawn heads and shells, pipis, worms, maggots, fish frames, chopped weed and green cabbage, sand, wheat, bran, corn, tuna oil and various fish scrapes.
 
For instance if you are after luderick during the winter months in Sydney I find that a mixture of cabbage from the rocks and green weed from the estuary mixed up with sand will do the trick. Then on the other hand when I chase luderick during the winter months in the Shoal Haven River it pays to have a few chopped up squirt worms, pink nippers mixed in with the weed and sand. Not only does it get the luderick on the chew, it also stirs up the odd yellowfin bream.
 
Since the year of 2003 the silver trevally in Botany Bay have increased ten fold, and believe me they have been everywhere, but there are still many anglers who have been having trouble getting amongst them. The best combination that I found that works on the silver trevally has been bread and chicken pellets that have been soaked in water for a few minutes. Once the bread and the pellets have been broken up, you then need to grab a half a fist full and squash most of the water out. Leaving you with a ball of berley about half the size of a cricket ball, which you through out into the water about every three to four minutes.
 
If you are after yellowtail, slimy mackerel or garfish for live bait, you can't seem to go past mashed up pilchards. It is the oil in this fish that adds to the berley trail making the baitfish bite more readily. On the other hand if you are after a feed of estuary leatherjackets you can't go by using chopped up prawn heads and shells.
 
Bream, snapper, flathead, tailor, Australian salmon and yellowtail kingfish will respond to a combination of chopped up pilchards, tuna and chicken pellets.
 
Do I have to berley differently from a boat than to when I am fishing from the shore?
Whether I am fishing from a boat or the shore I will use a floating rig to chase luderick, and when fishing in the estuaries or bays there are five ingredients that you need in your berley, finely chopped up green weed, sand, water movement, consistency and placement. When fishing from a boat I prefer to have my boat anchored at ninety degrees to the shoreline so that there is no swaying from side to side of the boat. This then allows me to keep direct contact with the float. Once I have started the float on its drift away from the boat I can direct a handful of the berley to land around the float. This will ensure that while the berley sinks it will stay with the float as it moves away from the boat. To keep the luderick in the berley trail you will need to keep up a reasonably steady flow of berley and when you have hooked a fish this is usually a good time to throw another handful. By the way the sand gives the green weed some weight to get it down to where the fish are feeding.
 
Whenever I am fishing off the beach I always have some kind of bait bucket strapped to one side of my waste and the other side will have a berley bucket. They could be a store brought one or a cut out plastic milk container. I tend to use chopped up pilchards and every now and then throw a handful as far out into the surf as I can get. You will find take this type of berleying will attract tailor, bream, sand whiting, along with other fish species. They inturn will attract the larger predator, the mulloway. Once again you need to make sure that you bait is much larger than the berley you are using. Say for instance, a fillet or whole tailor, mullet, whiting, luderick or squid.
 
Even though I have never use this technique before I have it on good authority that it does work. Firstly you need to build yourself a berley cage that is cylindrical, about one and a half metres long and a metre in diameter. It then has to be covered in birdcage wire with a trap door at one end. The berley cage then has fish pieces or pilchards place inside it, which is then anchored to the sand by two spikes and two lengths of chain or rope. The wave action will cause the cage to roll up and down the beach releasing bits of the berley into the surf. The only problem that I would have is that I would have to carry it down onto the beach and as I like to fish as light as possible when chasing mulloway from the beach, this would restrict me to one area to much.
 
Whether fishing in the estuaries or bays, or fishing off the beach, berleying once again is a must off the rocks and I never fish off the rocks without berleying. Luderick are very responsive to berley and the four main ingredients in the berley are finely chopped up green weed or cabbage, water movement, white water and once again timing.
 
It doesn't matter whether you are fishing in a wash, gutter, wash out, off sloping rocks or a flat platform there needs to be some kind of water movement when fishing for luderick off the rocks. This comes in the form of the change of tide and the swell. Most of the places that I fish for luderick off the rocks you will find small tuffs of either green, brown or black cabbage. It is this growth that you not only use for bait, but you scape off with the cleats or spikes on the bottom of your shoes. The swell and tide will carry the berley away from the rocks and hopefully bring the luderick into where your float is. Now as for the timing you should scrape some off before you start to get your gear rigged and then every time that you move about on the rocks.
 
If you are going to target mulloway off the rocks you could always get yourself a tuna or a bonito and tie it around the tail. The other end is then secured to the rocks where you are fishing. The whole fish is then put into the water and allowed to wash around, causing small piece to break off every now and then. This berley will go out with the tide and current attracting the larger predators in closer.
 
Another method is to put some fish frames, heads and pilchards into a small meshed bag and also secure it to the rocks where you are fishing. This will also give you a slow release berley into the wash.
 
Now there you have it, if done correctly berleying is not a waste of time of effort and to my way of thinking you should berley more often, rather than not at all.
 
 
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How to get the best out of your Jig Heads when targeting flathead.

Over the past 16 years I have been running fishing classes at various tackle and marine shops here in Sydney and I am still amazed at the amount of anglers who still say that the dusky flathead is not worth catching. That they don't put up a fight, and if it does, it is like pulling in a wet sock. Or, you only fish for dusky flathead if you want to take home a feed of fish for the family. It is these anglers who will just drift along aimlessly with a bait out the back for hours on end waiting for a dusky flathead to jump on the pasting bait.
 
Now don't get me wrong I have nothing against drifting for dusky flathead using bait. I still do it, but I would like to say is that 95 percent of my dusky flathead now days are caught on soft plastics.
 
As a kid I use to target dusky flathead with strips of fresh, mullet, slimy mackerel and tailor, or if that didn't work I use to use live yellowtail or poddy mullet. It was the only way that I had been taught to target a feed of dusky flathead that was reliable and cheap. There were times when I managed to save up enough money to go out a buy a few hard body minnow lures that I would also use to chase dusky flathead with, but it would start to get very expensive when I either got snagged up or lost the lure to a fish.
 
Being a bit strapped for cash to keep on buying hard bodied lures I decided to give the soft plastics and jig heads ago that were brought over here from America buy an Australian importer. Even though these soft plastics were targeted at a variety of fish species, it seemed that many of the anglers who preferred to chase dusky flathead with baits and hard bodies were starting to have great success with soft plastics.  
 
Now, thirty years on there are literally hundreds of different overseas and Australian manufactures out there that are supplying soft plastics into tackle shops in Australia. So many in fact that the humble ball jig head has taken on a number of different shapes and sizes to accommodate, not only the different types of plastics, but also the many different types of fish species you can catch with them.
 
Okay, so what do I think that makes a excellent jig head that I would use for chasing flathead with soft plastics?
 
  • They have to have a chemically sharpen point that will stand up to getting snagged a number of times.
  • There has to be some kind of a keeper device just below the head of the jig to help hold the soft plastic on the shaft of the jig.
  • The wire has to be strong enough so that it doesn't straighten out.
  • The shape of the jig head needs to suit the type of soft plastic that you are using.
 
For a number of years now I have been using the TT Wobble Head Jig in the following size when targeting dusky flathead. The No. 2, 1/10oz, 1/0, 1/4oz and the 4/0, 3/8oz. Now, for you to be able to appreciate how the Wobble Head Jig works in the water you will need to put a plastic on one of them and either very slowly troll it beside your boat or cast and retrieve it in very clear water. Only then will you appreciate what great action this jig head has. You could also drop it into clear water at your feet and watch how it wobbles as it drops down through the water column.
 
What I have also found that the action of the jig head as it is worked through the water will impart more action to the plastic itself. When chasing dusky flathead with jig heads and soft plastic I have found that I will use three different techniques.
 
  • The single or double jerk
  • The hopping method
  • The slow twitch
 
All of which are very effective when it comes to using TT Wobble Head Jig when targeting dusky flathead. To help you better understand these 3 different techniques I will give you a run down on the 3 different techniques that I use to target dusky flathead with soft plastics and the TT Wobble Head Jig.
 
The Shore-based hopping method from a Breakwall.
When I have been fishing from breakwalls I have noticed that many anglers tend to try and cast out as far as they can and then either put their rod into a hole or a crevice or just sit there and hold on to it while waiting for a fish to jump on the end of the line. Okay this style of fishing will catch fish. But, what you will find is that the current will eventually bring the bait back to the edge of the breakwall. Which in-turn could result in the rig getting snagged on the rocks.
 
I have found that to be successful in catching dusky flathead when fishing off a breakwall you will need to be pro-active, rather than non-active. In other words, if you sit on your backside (non-active) and wait for the fish to come to you, you may get a fish or two. But if you change and work hard at targeting the fish (pro-active) your catch rate will increase ten fold.
 
When using the larger Shads (5 inch) in water that is running fairly quickly and the depth of water is between 3 to 5 metres I will select the 4/0, 3/8 Wobble Head Jig. The extra weight will enable me to cast that much further, while at the same time get it down quicker to the bottom where the dusky flathead are laying in ambush. You could also use the Tournament Series Jig heads in the 1/4 once No 1, 1/0, 2/0, 3/0 and 4/0 or you could go heavier and use the 3/8 once 2/0 and 4/0.
 
To help the soft plastic to get down where the flathead are, I too will cast it out as far as I can get it. But I make sure that I cast it up current, as this will give it enough time to hit the bottom. You will know when the soft plastic has hit the bottom by watching the GSP line go limp. When this happens all you need to do is wind in the slack line and lift the rod tip up to about 60 degrees off the waters surface. This will cause the soft plastic to rise slowly off the bottom. Then lower the rod tip back down and wind up the slack line. Keep on repeating this process over and over again until it reaches the area where the sandy bottom meets the bottom of the breakwall.
 
Once it is near where the breakwall meets the sandy bottom I will then start retrieving the soft plastic in a hopping motion back towards me. To do this I will use an outfit that consists of either a 2.1m Shakespeare Synergy SP701L soft plastic rod, mounted with a Pflueger Medalist 6030 spinning reel that is spooled with 3 to 5 kilo GSP line, or a Pflueger Trion PTSP AB 4770 1LFT rod, mounted with a Pflueger Medalist 6030 spinning reel that is spooled with 3 to 5 kilo GSP line.
 
When the tide is not running as hard I will still use the same sized shad, but will decrease the size of the Wobble Head Jig to a 1/4 once, 1/0 or a Tournament Series Jig head. If you get no response from the change in jig size you could also down size the shad to a 2, 3 or 4 inch.
 
The single or double jerk while drifting in Shallow waters over a combination of sand and weed beds.
By shallow waters I mean the depth of water needs to be no deeper that say 3m and as shallow as your boat will go. When fishing in this depth of water I prefer to use the No 2, 1/8 once or 1/0, 1/4 once Wobble Head Jig or the Tournament Series Jig heads in the 1/4 once No 1, 1/0, 2/0, 3/0 and 4/0. The type of plastic could be a shad, double or single tailed grub or stick baits.
 
If you are going to use the Shads or the stick baits you could use the same technique and jig heads as you would when fishing adjacent to the breakwalls. The single or double jerk is where you cast out the jig head and soft plastic in the same direction as the boat is drifting. You then allow it to hit the bottom. Remember to wind up that slack line, while at the same time pointing the rod tip down to the surface of the water. Instead of slowly lift the rod tip upwards; you either whip the rod in a single or double action.
 
This will cause the soft plastic to rocket off the bottom and hopefully attract the attention of a flathead. Many of the takes will be as the soft plastic flutters back down to the bottom. The next time that you repeat this process you will usually find that the flathead has it already in its mouth. You could use the same outfits as mentioned in fishing breakwalls or a Pflueger President LP Baitcaster reel, (PRESIDENTLP) mounted on a PTCA 4760-1M Trion Graphite rod and spooled with 5 kilo GSP line.
 
The way that you know whether a dusky flathead has taken the soft plastics is there may be the slightest straitening of the GSP line on the top of the water as the fish has come off the bottom and taken the lure as it is fluttering back down to the bottom. Or you may feel and extra weight on the line as you quickly lift the rod tip upwards.
 
The slow twitch in and around the base of Mangroves.
Nothing is better than using a Motor Guide electric motor to quietly position yourself up to within casting distance of the base of a set of mangroves. Then flick out a lightly weighted soft plastic close to, or into a set of standing mangroves for dusky flathead, bream, trevally. The depth of the water that you are casting too may be as shallow as just 10cm.
 
Once the soft plastic has hit the water you can let it sink to hit the bottom. Once again this will easily identified by the line going slack. Then it is just a matter of slowly twitching the rod tip slowly back towards your boat from the edge of the mangroves. If, after a couple of cast this doesn't work you go try high sticking your rod and twitching it back across the shallow water, but make sure that you don't strike too hard, as you may well pull the soft plastic out of the fishes mouth.
 
Double and single tail grubs, stick baits, worms, paddle tails, fish and crawfish patterns can be used with the smallest of the TT Wobble Head jigs, 1/32, 1/16 and 1/8 once Jig Heads, 1/8 once Ball Terror Jigs and the 1/20, 1/16, 1/12, 1/8, 1/6 and 1/4 once Tournament Series Jig heads.
 
Well, there you have it. Three different techniques for you to try. So the next time that you are going out to chase flathead with dead or live baits. Why don't you take out a handful of TT Jig Heads and some soft plastics. I am sure that you will be pleasantly surprised in your catch rate.
 
 
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